Carpenter Bees 101: How to Protect Your Wood from These Bees

So, there I was, coffee in hand, enjoying the first warm weekend on the deck. The sun was out, the dog was sleeping, and life was good… until I noticed a strange little pile of sawdust near the railing. I looked up. There it was—a carpenter bee, hovering like it was inspecting my woodwork for flaws.

That was the moment I realized: we’re not just sharing our outdoor space with nature—we're also renting it to bugs with a serious passion for construction.

Welcome to the weird world of carpenter bees. They don’t sting (unless you’re really asking for it), they don’t eat your wood, and yet they drill into it with the precision of a power tool. If you’ve ever found tiny, perfect holes in your deck or eaves, with fine sawdust below, congratulations—you’ve been chosen.

Let’s break down how to get rid of carpenter bees without turning your home into a war zone—or wiping out helpful pollinators in the process.

What Are Carpenter Bees (And What Makes Your House So Tasty)?

Carpenter bees are those big, solitary cousins of bumblebees. They’re not out to build a hive or gather honey. No, these bees are real-estate moguls. Each female drills her own tunnel into wood to lay her eggs. And not just any wood—they want untreated, softwood surfaces with some sun exposure and low traffic. Your deck, your porch railing, your pergola? Prime bee property.

They don’t eat the wood—they just carve it out, toss it aside (hello, sawdust), and build a neat horizontal tunnel that’s just deep enough to house a few larvae. If your house were a log cabin in the forest, we’d call it “natural coexistence.” But if you’ve paid for lumber and stain, you probably see things differently.

Signs You’ve Got Carpenter Bees

Let’s not confuse them with termites or ants. Carpenter bees leave very specific signs:

• Perfectly round holes, about the size of a pinky, often on the underside of wood

• Fresh piles of sawdust below these holes

• Buzzing patrols, usually in spring when males hover protectively nearby

• Bee poop (yeah, it’s a thing—yellowish-brown stains near holes)

Think of it as crime scene evidence—clean, circular, and with a buzz.

Why Should You Care?

Because while one bee might only make a small tunnel, they tend to return to the same spot every year—and invite others. Over time, multiple bees can compromise the structural integrity of wooden beams, especially in rafters, fascia boards, and support columns.

Oh, and woodpeckers love carpenter bee larvae. So if the bees don’t wreck your eaves, the birds will.

How to Get Rid of Carpenter Bees Without Wiping Out Nature

Carpenter bees are pollinators. They matter. So unless you’re dealing with a full-blown infestation, skip the harsh chemicals and opt for smarter, gentler tactics.

Step 1: Don’t Plug the Hole Too Soon

Tempting, I know. You see the hole and want to fill it ASAP. But if the bee’s still inside, it’ll either chew a new exit (creating more damage), or die inside, which attracts more pests and smells bad.

Wait until late summer or early fall, when the bees are gone and larvae have matured and moved out.

Then:

• Insert a wooden dowel or spray-in foam

• Cover with exterior wood filler or putty

• Sand it flush

• Paint or stain the whole area (bonus points if you use oil-based products)

Step 2: Make a Natural Citrus Repellent Spray

Bees hate citrus oils—especially lemon and orange.

DIY it:

• Boil citrus peels in water for 10–15 minutes

• Let it cool, strain into a spray bottle

• Spray directly onto and around entry holes, rafters, beams, etc.

• Reapply weekly during peak season (April–June)

It smells great to humans. To bees? Like a strobe light in a library.

Bonus tip: Add a few drops of clove or peppermint oil for extra punch.

Step 3: Use Carpenter Bee Traps

These are cheap, simple and satisfying. Wooden boxes with angled holes lead bees into a clear bottle or jar below. They enter, can’t find the exit, and get trapped.

Place them:

• Near active holes

• Under eaves and deck roofs

• Where bee activity is highest

These work best in early spring, before new nests are established.

Step 4: Keep Them on the Move (Literally)

Carpenter bees prefer peace and quiet. So give them a noisy, flashy, confusing mess.

• Wind chimes

• CDs or mirrors hanging on strings

• Fake wasp nests (they avoid hornet turf)

• Motion-activated sprinklers or fans

These create a “not worth the trouble” vibe.

Step 5: Treat Wood Like It Owes You Money

Unfinished or weathered wood is an open invitation. But painted or sealed wood is like a “No Vacancy” sign.

Tips:

• Use oil-based paints or stains

• Apply multiple coats, especially on raw ends or drill-prone spots

• Re-seal every 2–3 years (put it in your fall maintenance calendar)

If you’re building new structures, go with pressure-treated lumber. Bees hate it.

Step 6: Recruit Nature’s Backup—Predators and Plants

Okay, not everyone wants birds and bats around. But both eat carpenter bees. Hanging a bat house or attracting bee-hungry birds (woodpeckers aside) can reduce populations naturally.

Also:

• Plant strong-smelling herbs like mint, basil, lavender, and rosemary near wood structures

• Their scent deters bee activity (plus they’re delicious)

Quick Myth Buster

“Cinnamon kills carpenter bees.”
Nope. It might confuse ants or small insects, but carpenter bees? They'll laugh and fly past your spice rack. Stick with citrus oil or peppermint if you want real results.

Mini Story: When the Bees Came Back Stronger

One summer, I used wood filler to patch some bee holes, then forgot to paint. I thought, “Good enough.” Next spring? Same bees, same spot—but now with a friend. They re-drilled through the putty like it was butter. Lesson learned: seal and paint, or you’re just giving them a renovation budget.

Daily Bee-Blocking Checklist

A quick glance every few days during spring can save you big headaches later. Here’s your easy routine:

✅ Spray citrus repellent on exposed wood
✅ Look for fresh sawdust or bee activity
✅ Tap near holes to check for buzzing
✅ Place traps near frequent hangout spots
✅ Re-spray after rain
✅ Add visual deterrents (CDs, fake wasp nests)

Preventing the Next Invasion: Fall Maintenance Plan

Carpenter bees work in seasons. You should too.

In fall:

• Plug up ALL visible holes

• Sand and paint damaged wood

• Re-check old nests from prior years

• Add screening or mesh to vulnerable zones

Think of it like winterizing your home—just for bugs with drills.

What NOT to Do (Unless You Want More Problems)

❌ Don’t spray random chemicals. It may harm bees, pets, or you.

❌ Don’t bang or hammer near nests during the day. Angry bees ≠ good time.

❌ Don’t leave wood raw and untreated. You’re just advertising “Now Leasing.”

❌ Don’t assume “one hole = one bee = no big deal.” Bee math doesn’t work like that.

FAQ

How long does it take to get rid of carpenter bees?

If you catch the nesting early (March–May), traps and repellents can stop them in a few weeks. For long-term protection, plan on a full season of watchfulness, plus post-season maintenance to seal the deal.

Do carpenter bees come back to the same spot every year?

Yes—and so do their kids. If you don’t seal and paint the holes, next year you’ll get a reunion tour. Plug, paint, and protect now to avoid an encore performance.

Final Thought: Don’t Fear the Buzz—Just Outsmart It

Carpenter bees aren’t villains. They’re just picky pollinators who think your wood siding is prime real estate. With a little know-how, some citrus, and maybe a homemade trap or two, you can get rid of carpenter bees—without calling pest control or turning your porch into a no-fly zone.

And next spring? When that familiar buzz shows up, you’ll be ready. Maybe even one step ahead.